The bus dropped us off at the entrance where we paid our park fee. I got in for cheap with my Chilean papers (the brits in the tent next door are being fucking loud). We loaded our gear into vans and drove across a tiny bridge at a ranch type thing. Still not noon yet. This was the start of the trail. We took a couple of wrong turns but figured it out eventually. The trail was steep uphill for awhile. I led the slow group on the incline. Seems like 2 out of 3 people we passed spoke English. The climb leveled out as we began the side of the mountain into the canyon-super windy. Took a break at the refugio and then 2 more hours into camp. The fast group beat us by 25 min and had already set up the tents. We followed suit and made dinner. I ate Jesse’s pasta and gave Liz the cake afterwards. A small stream runs through camp but you can only get drinking water 5 min up to avoid the ‘human contamination.’

(on the bus to the park now-7:53am) We landed in the rain at PUQ-the Brit next to me used the amusing phrase ‘It’s pissing rain.’ A taxi guy had my name on a sign at baggage -thanks Erin- and drove us to the hostel. He was a cool guy and told me where to go to get the essentials. The others were already at the hostel and we sacked out soon after arriving-I didn’t fall asleep until like 4 though. Shower in the morning and late breakfast down the street. It was nice to see people still have access to facebook in the Antarctic governmental zone. After some searching we got a bus to Natales and were off to the wild country. The land is barren, harsh but absolutely amazing. Many of the trees are dead/dying from some lethal moss. The bus conductor was quite creepy – not sure if he could speak-and just made a lot of hand gestures. Our hostel in Natales turned out to be next to the bus shop-checked in and went in search of the famous fruit and nut lady-turned out to be a guy working. The town is small and has a western feel to it-rugged with dusty roads. I bought a jacket, vino and candles for Liz’s cake, ate some bully meat for dinner and rented equipment at the hostel. The gross lady showed us how to assemble the tent and I let the kitten attack my hand for awhile. I removed a bunch of stuff from my bags to make room for more, showered and drank some vino. We toasted and sang to Liz at midnight and went to Groove. (We just passed the construction line on the paved portion of highway-well I guess we’re back on now-teams are building today). We were the only ones at the disco but it was a nice little bday party.

…I see cattle in a golden valley of grass surrounded by grey/green hills of short trees. No people, no houses. There are snow capped mountains in the distance-maybe a glacier-everybody else is asleep while we drive into adventure.

I’m on the plane now waiting to leave the gate at SCL. A surprise to me, the flight is full-redeye. I studied a bit for the exam before class today. Cecilia didn’t like the fact that I brought my breakfast to my room, she would have preferred to do it. The test was like any other Spanish one. The group discussed travel plans a bit after class and then I went home and did more shopping at Jumbo (View from cabin-It’s amazing that in all parts of the world there are chubby kids in track suits with Ipods). I did find the dried fruit isle. I kept packing, showered and ate dinner. Nobody else was home. Earlier that afternoon I talked briefly with the old guy building a wooden wall next door. The old people here are much nicer than the younger ones-same as home. I also talked to a nice lady on the street corner who was waiting for a cab. I think she mentioned something about the German hospital. My phone ran out of min again today…calls are expensive. I bought a ‘cake’ for Liz for her birthday on Saturday. Hope she likes like, should be a nice treat in the wilderness. (I guess English is now common on domestic flights in Spanish speaking countries!). The trip to Holanda made me realize that my bag is heavy, although Liz’s is the heaviest of them all. We took the private van to the airport and did echeckin, I forgot my new ff#. Oh well, I’ll enter it later. Jesse and I got a drink at the bar and watched a bit of Cola-Cola vs BA(River Platte)-we lost 2-1. We also watched a bit of Tom Jones from Viña. He’s better on youtube. Getting close to the runway, hope the guy next to me doesn’t fall asleep, I need to piss this gin and tonic and Gatorade. News from the south on the flip side.

Ran a little late this morning but made it to the LC office to apply for my cedula. Nothing like getting all 10 fingers printed and a mug shot to start the day out right. My group gave a presentation in class today and Kali and I came back here to do shopping for Patagonia. I bought mountain shoes and a ton of food. I had to take some clothes out to be able to fit the essentials. I watched the opening of the music fest in Viña on tv tonight-Tom Jones will be there next week. I think tonight was the first time I ate fish here, Cecilia made it with rice and it tasted a bit like chicken. I’ll be eating dry soup and granola bars the next couple of days. This is going to be fun!

Got up early to go north to do cedula stuff but spent the entire time at home hand writing my paper because the printer doesn’t work here. I grabbed a paper on the way to class and picked an article about salmon to present. The class wasn’t too exciting but Liz came and that was nice. We had our meeting with Antonia afterwards and pretty much talked shop. She seems like a great fit for the job, very informative and organized. Liz, Jess and Kali agreed on going with the other group to Torres in Patagonia and that is what I’ll do to. It should be amazing. We booked our tickets at Jumbo and swung by the house before going to the mall. I really need to get better with the buses because I am sick of getting off at the wrong stop. I bought a mat and some shirts and will go back tomorrow for boots and other stuff. The $1000 from the foundation will certainly help. Sebastian bought a music theory/hard-core tonal analysis book to help his playing. Seems a bit excessive for a bugle but I’ll be impressed if he gets through the book. We listened to some jazz for a bit and then I did computer work and got ready for bed before 1am. Yeah sleep! Much prep work to do tomorrow.

Class at 11:30, watched a movie called ‘Grinuito,’ not too entertaining. Wandered around the city in the afternoon with my tarea group to see the sights, that took awhile. Went home and started the paper about the movie. Lucy and Cesar(co workers) came over for dinner and drinks. We spent a good part of the time talking politics. I went over to Holanda to talk over more trip stuff (after pizza of course!). We are looking at glaciers in Argentina as a possibility.

Woke up at 11:30 or so, ate, did homework. Cecilia told me to do my work outside to get some sun. I burned my shoulders. Went to the store and made my copies of cedula documents. Met Liz and Kali for dinner, we went to the Irish pub in Prov. Went back to their place and read about and discussed the trip to Patagonia. There’s still a lot more planning to do. My cab ride back took me in a very round-about way home. I should have said something, but that’s my bad. Class tomorrow again.

(I’m probably still drunk-4:15am) I woke up really early and had to wake up Cecilia to make me breakfast-she insisted. I met my crew at the train station and got on the train the guy told me to. I got nervous after the doors closed once and only later learned that Kali and I were on the wrong train. We got on the right train at the last minute and went to San Fernando where we boarded the Tren del Vino, 14 of us in total. The ride to Santa Cruz was nice, they gave us wine and snacks and tried to sell us stuff. Watched a traditional dance in Santa Cruz and took the micro to the plaza. My guide book recommended eating at the Social Club and it was a very nice place with grape vines above the courtyard where we ate. The locals didn’t like us but we had numbers and I even toasted an old lady at another table. Came back to Santiago by bus and had a big party at Suezia…fun.

I really like those drinks last night because I woke up with them! I went to class despite the mild hangover and unusual rain (which turned into a t-storm) and cold temps. *Joke from class: there are 3 couples, one French, one Gringo, and one Chilean. The French pair goes to bed together and in the morning they say ‘au revoir.’ The Americans sleep together and in the morning ask ‘what’s your name?’ The Chileans sleep together and in the morning ask that they not tell anyone.* We mapped out the wine country trip for tomorrow during the social hour after class. I cam home, bought the steam ticket, and went north to get efe tickets. That rainy trip took four hours, but now I know another mall and the location of Carfuer. I walked most the way home because there weren’t any micros on Vespuccio. I walked past the Columbian and Norwegian embassies, Columbia had more plants. Talked with Sebast and ate a very late dinner. The storm dropped some nice looking snow on the mountains but I still prefer the warm temps that will return tomorrow. I hope the trip comes together.

Woke up to cell phone alarm, breakfast and the news-too few buses-and off to school. I did a little tarea on the metro and saw some others from the program. Class was boring except for the Valpo song. I talked after class with some people about the wine train this weekend down south. Kali and Liz took me to a great pizza place in Provedencia. Her parents showed up and we sat around eating and drinking for a couple of hours, not bad. I had my first pisco sour-it’s ok. I went home and did some homework, took my dinner at my desk (sounds exalted, no?), and went back to Prov to meet with Kali and Jesse. We found a nice drinking plaza (like a beer garden). I put away a bunch of mojitos and a couple of cigs that Kali made me go with and buy. Thirsty Thursday! I walked her home and walked myself home. 45 minutes, maybe not the smartest but I needed the walk and it was nice out. I hope the wine trip works out for Saturday. Time to sleep, more class tomorrow.

Day 2 of lang class. I woke up early and met some friends downtown to begin the Cedula process. We asked around a bit and found the photo place before it opened. We were the first seven customers. Next we went to the fed police station, got our numbers and waited to be called. We all got our temps ahead of schedule and with little problem. I don’t remember the next step, it’s in a book somewhere. Class was class-swear words, skits, the normal Spanish class stuff. Exchanged cell numbers afterwards and went with a group to explore the city center. The cathedral is nice (cheap Italian style) and quite Catholic. We ate lunch (3pm) at a small restaurant in the shopping district, chilled for a bit and headed out. I came home and started homework after checking the web. People are still freaking out here over the buses. The routes are fine but the capacity is too low. I’ve been lucky so far. After dinner I went to Jumbo in search of a phone card. I got one as the store closed (tried for an international card at Lider but it turns out I don’t need one) and called home a little later. Second attempt got me talking to myself on the answering machine-how fun! I talked to mom and dad later, snow back home and nothing but 80s here and deciding when to go to the beach. Ciao!

I got up at 8:30 this morning because Cecilia and I were going to the mall at 10. The news was reporting the chaos in the city during rush hour caused by the new public transport system-Transantiago. The metro really didn’t change but the bus routes and numbers are different. It is all new for me so I feel like a local with my maps and confused expression when a micro fails to stop. Before going to the mall Cecilia showed me how to get to the housing office (really just the other Cecilia’s apartment). The kiosk wasn’t open in the mall and I don’t know what C said to a guy in the phone store but I think I need to go back Wednesday afternoon. We stopped in a bedding/kitchen store and I bought an exfoliating bath mitten! We returned to the house and I set out on my own for SJ with my stop watch. I got on a bus, went a few blocks and waited for another bus. I waited long enough and did the traditional Kevern thing, I got on the train. I trust trains more than buses. I walked around campus for a bit and returned home. Lunch, nap and map reading. I arrived at Blanch’s no problem. She was in the lobby, locked out and waiting for her husband with keys. Another UW kid arrived, Jesse, and we learned that she was expecting 8 in total. Her apartment is super nice with a flower balcony. It was nice to talk to other students, seems like forever. Some of the Mich. Girls spent a few weeks down south and a lot of these kids live in ñuñoa to the south-west of here. I think one other girls lives in Las Condes. Jesse and I had to get more cash across the street to pay the month’s rent (I thought we paid to the families). The bank was closed but he said atm cards open the door to the outer lobby with the machine. Two Madison students sticking their cards in the slot, hearing a beep and pulling on the door. Nothing. After a couple tries I look at the hinges and push on the door-what a concept! We got the money, paid the lady and left after chatting with the others. Oh, she read off some guidelines for us and put a lot of emphasis on not using propane in a room without ventilation. We all laughed. It took forever to get home. Three buses were full and I barely squeezed onto a later one. I kept getting hit by the door when it opened and closed. I guess 7pm is rush hour. Oh, that reminds me…when I was waiting for a bus upon returning from SJ, a cute girl asked me if the bus accepted bip or tickets. I got nervous, forgot the word for ‘free’ (buses were free today) and said I wasn’t sure. She ended up asking the old lady (I helped one off a bus earlier in the morning). Way to go James, I’m a dumbass. Quiet evening here, food, reading, writing, exfoliating! Oh back to school…R-O-C-K!

Back to the flight down-I ordered a mojito as my free drink but the attendant didn’t have a shaker so I had rum and sprite and she said she would bring the mojito later, on the house. She had good timing too. As soon as ‘Love Story’ started she brought it by. That might be my new favorite drink.

I slept great last night, 9hrs I think. The room is hot tonight. I ventured out on my own today. I walked around the neighborhood, past the embassy of Egypt to the Jumbo store. The atms were offline so I continued on down the main drag in search of a bank. Being Sunday they were closed, but I did find one at the metro station. I returned home with cash and an appetite from my hour’s walk. Cecilia and I ate lunch and watched more of the Davis cup being played several hours to the north(breakfast was the same scene). I went back to Jumbo around 5pm – the sun makes it seem like early afternoon – and did my shopping. The store was a madhouse of families with little kids and ones cramming the back-to-school isles. I was probably the oldest student there. The store is big and I must have gone down every isle several times. I am always surprised at the fact that the rest of the world doesn’t refrigerate milk(I know the preservative chemicals aren’t all natural). I also found maple syrup-pretty sure that the stuff I brought is better. I’ll have to have mom and dad mail me some washcloths. I forgot mine and as expected they don’t have then here. I cut up a cheap hand towel, but my makeshift cloth isn’t long for the world. The cell phone kiosk didn’t have the prepaid I wanted so Cecilia will take me somewhere tomorrow morning to get one. She will also show me how to get to the housing office for tomorrow’s meeting with Cecilia Blanch. I can’t get the internet to work in my room but will keep trying. For now I’m using the computer in Sebastien’s room. Maybe tomorrow I can get some pictures posted. I will also try the micros tomorrow(I think they are still free tomorrow) and the metro and time my trip to school. I should also put some money on my metro/micro card. I set up my finances on my computer and updated my white board. The Jelly Bellies remain a huge hit down here, especially with Sebst. He just bought himself a bugle and attempts to play it. I don’t think I’ll see him much because he puts in big shifts at the clinic and then is with his gf.
Many of the houses in this area have black iron fencing or stone walls. Palm trees and flowers are in many yards and the women water stuff in the evenings. There are speed bumps throughout the area but traffic was pretty quiet today. I exercised a bit in the room earlier but will have to find something more substantial. I turned on the water heater to take a shower but only got cold water. I decided that after checking the thing to make sure it was on(and it was) that I would just take a cold shower. Cecilia must have figured out what I was doing and told me to me to use more water(I think that’s what she said!)-it worked, I’m clean. More adventures on the flip side.

I’ve been in the country just over half a day and what a great relief it is to take Elizabeth’s advice and write in English. This is more Spanish than I have ever experienced in my life. But now to recap the last 36 hours. It was terribly cold in Wisconsin-well, not terrible; but cold-10F when I left on Friday. I shook Dad’s hand before he went to work(maybe the second or third time I’ve ever done that), finished packing, and Mom took me the bus station. I can never put emotion into that type of goodbye because I am always too concerned with the next step-airport, bags, Spanish, etc.-which is unfortunate because I think I come off seeming distant and reserved when all I want is to be close to people. I mean, I don’t even have pictures of family members with me. True…you never know how important something is until you don’t have it. Moving on…bus ride was normal-my 47lb suitcase, travel bag, backpack, and laptop case. I don’t travel lightly. No problems with the airline(Delta), my bags arrived and I even spent a lovely few hours at the Atlanta airport-fun, fun!(jk) Sat next to a Brit on the way to SCL. He had flown from Scotland to London to Atlanta and onto SCL and then had to fly south to Puerto Montt to take a violinist post on a NCL ship for a month or so. His name was Peter and his mother now lives in Cornwall. The couple in front of us wasted no opportunity to make-out during the flight - ah young love. Anyway…customs was simple and a lady in arrivals had my name on a sign. For $10 she got me a transfer(turns out Cecilia’s car died not long ago) into the city. The driver reminded me of Andre Agassi. The scenery made me think of Italy-mix of green and brown with tall, slim trees. Warm too, I flew into the strong end of summer. Maybe this means a second chance at fall semester? Through the complex gate at Victor Rae, Cecilia met me with a big hug, welcomed after burning the sky for 5000 miles and not being able to understand the average Jose. We talked inside, she made me eggs, gave me keys and a metro pass. I gave them(Sebastian and gf Veronica were up by now) the book, syrup and Jelly Bellies-big hit-thanks mom and dad! Those two took me to the super market-Jumbo- my atm didn’t work-not good-not much I can do. Home, more food, Cecilia took me out to campus SJ-metro part is easy but bus(micros) is brand new and a bitch. Oh well, I guess I’ll practice tomorrow and Monday. School-ah-Americans=English. I emailed home, set my room up; pretty bare save for a Maxim page up by my bed-cute. Don’t know who put it there but I’ll leave it. Dinner out front with Lucy, Cecilia’s friend, we talked grammar and school and I tried to follow. Well, it’s 12:45am, time for bed I think. Maybe some city map reading first. Until tomorrow, good night journal.